Last Summer Days

Salut,

Time had a way of getting away from me, and now the summer's over and school is back. The last three weeks proved to be slightly more eventful than I had planned or originally thought but so welcome. My first-weekend trip after I went to Toktogul was to Osh. I haven’t been to Osh in some time, despite passing through it on numerous occasions. I visited Osh City on the weekend, and I signed up for a horse riding tour. I had heard from some Fulbright ETAs a while back about their excursions in Osh, and one recommended Horse Riding Osh, a private tour company, to me. The tour was around 4 hours and cost about 25$, which included transportation to Alay. Alay is a gorgeous part of Osh, and the Alay mountains are a must-see. Santi, a volunteer, lives around Alay, and the tour guide I met knew him. 

After the halfway mark of our tour, we stopped and leashed the horses with a family up in the mountain and ate with them. Atop the hills, we looked over, and sometimes my horse got frenzied, galloping when I didn’t want it to. I have poor horse control, but I’m learning. With a second horse trek under my belt, I’ve found that I genuinely enjoyed it for the first hour. After the third and fourth, it was deeply uncomfortable and a lot of my body was sore. I don’t know how nobles and soldiers managed to do it, but maybe I ought to have learned the art of side saddling? Osh was lovely to be in, but I was pretty quick in and out, though I got my pesto jar. 

    

Vanessa back in May had asked if I would be down to conduct a teacher training with our own raion center. I spoke to Baktygul, and she said there would be an English teacher meeting in August, and ideally, we should do it then. I attended the English teacher meeting back in the spring, and I definitely mentioned it in one of my blog posts. Overall, it was extremely boring, because the lady in charge droned on for two hours in Kyrgyz (I understand only some of it), not in English, and the classroom was so small that teachers had to stand and like 30 were even sitting or standing outside. I had thought around 80-100 teachers were at that training. As such, I was wary about trying to do something in that environment. But the training came together, so a week ago, Vanessa and I were able to conduct a training. Baktygul spoke to the lady in charge for us, who agreed to set aside a little over an hour, for us to conduct our training. Come to the day of, they moved the English lesson to a half-gym, and everyone brought in chairs, which made it all much better. They set up a projector. Our raion had two annual teacher trainings for all subjects, so all teachers were at this one school. Baktygul and I left early in the morning, and while we were both on the marshrutka, it was full of teachers in our village going to the same place as us. 

    

Vanessa and I agreed to do two separate trainings, and she would present and organize her own. Hers was about English speaking lessons over grammar. She had recognized, very accurately I think, that teachers here often don’t focus or practice enough on speaking skills with students. Often, speaking drills are too difficult and mismatched to students’ levels, at least I think so. Her training was a model of an English lesson for young (around 5-6th grade) students. She had the teachers practice pronunciation and answering questions, and many of the teachers in the front row were very engaged. There were so many teachers there, and she did her entire training in English. In the beginning, she offered to translate or have her counterpart translate for her. The lady in charge, the headteacher, quickly shot down that idea and insisted she speak only English. As such, Vanessa had to constantly ensure people understood her. The teachers were super receptive, and her lesson was around 30-45 minutes. 

For my lesson, I decided to teach teachers how to use ChatGPT. Baktygul learned just recently how to use ChatGPT while she was studying in Bishkek. While studying at the university, they taught her a little about how to detect AI and how to use it. Earlier in the year, it occurred to me that no one here has ever used it or heard of it. There are lots of reasons for this. English is the predominant language currently of AI, and ChatGPT and other AI bots, while accessible on phones and apps, have been used a lot on computers. This follows a general trend of less accessibility to technology. My training was a little different than Vanessa’s, and once I mentioned ChatGPT, lots of the teachers instantly went looking for it on the Google Play store. First, I showed an example of a good prompt to design an English lesson plan for 5th-grade students. Then, I broke down what ChatGPT can do, and what it can’t do (ie. prediction, giving accurate facts or sources). I primarily showed ChatGPT’s features in English, but I did demonstrate a Russian prompt, and when that happened, I saw the teachers’ eyes light up. The possibilities seemed to open up. I discussed dangers and potential problems, pointing out how it can be used to cheat by students on homework. As a teacher, ChatGPT won’t teach for us, instead, it is a phenomenal resource to get ideas and create teaching outlines. I remember showing Saltanat, our Peace Corps educational training manager how to use ChatGPT back last November, and she was blown away. For TEFL teachers, ChatGPT is also an excellent resource for learning or practicing English; chatbots have been instrumental in apps like Duolingo to practice conversation. I also showed them Copilot and Gemini, both of which I haven’t really used (though I do like Gemini). 

Afterward, Vanessa’s counterpart and mine both spoke to the teachers about their experiences working with Peace Corps Volunteers. The headteacher droned on for a while, so I zoned out, but a lot of the teachers were interested in listening to us and expressed an interest in having volunteers. The headteacher, Nariza I think was her name, had been a counterpart with a volunteer some years ago. It saddens me that so many excellent and motivated local English teachers express interest in having a volunteer to work with, all while knowing a minuscule amount will get one. Further, this is a Peace Corps paradox I discussed with another volunteer: the teachers that often want a volunteer the most are the ones with greater resources or are in closer proximity to a city, and as such are less likely to get a volunteer. Volunteers are sent to more remote locations, and the Peace Corps of course sends some volunteers to new villages all the time, but new villages are often hostile or apathetic to new volunteers. This of course is not universal; most villages receive their volunteers with open arms. The areas that need us the most are often difficult to engage with, and as many of us have learned, come with greater systemic structures in place we must work within. Even then, so many factors outside of just a school influence a volunteer, though it does play a large role. Even those that do have volunteers, not all students take advantage fully of us as resources, which can be discouraging. It all comes with the job. 

After the training was over, Vanessa’s counterpart left, and Baktygul and I took her to eat lagman. It is a longstanding tradition for Baktygul and I that if we ever go to Jalal-Abad, we must eat lagman together. The Lagman was delicious! Afterward, Baktygul had some errands and money to grab, so Vanessa and I sat at the top of a cafe within Plaza, a mall near the city center. Us Jalal-Abad volunteers have been staring at the restaurant and its balcony roof seating overlooking the city for months now, and we had been wondering if it was open. Vanessa discovered early in the summer it was indeed open. It’s pretty high-end, so I didn’t order anything. Vanessa had never taken a public marshrutka from Jalal-Abad back to her site, as she just takes the PC-hired taxi, or her counterpart drives her. Baktygul doesn’t have a car, so whenever we travel together, we take a taxi or marshrutka. Vanessa and I rarely travel to our raion center because we have to pass through Jalal-Abad city, and it was her first time there and her first time on a public marshrutka. 

I held my last school summer English camp/club for two weeks in the middle of August. I originally had to reschedule due to school cleaning and administrators coming to check on the school. But regardless, I managed to hold it, with significantly fewer students than last time. In June, I had clubs with a range of 20-40 students, which I think was way too many for me to handle. I had not expected so many students, but this time it was more manageable. I had about 10 or so on average. We fit into my smaller English room on the second floor. Unlike my first English club, which had a different feature every day (Monday was grammar classroom lesson day, Tuesday was board game day, Wednesday was sports and origami, and Friday was movie day), I changed it up a little. For my second club, on Mondays, we played more English-centered games, and I got more students to play Bananagrams. On Tuesdays, I had students do more review of verbs and grammar, and then on Wednesdays, I focused on vocabulary, usually nouns. I have lots of laminated puzzles Baktygul and I made, featuring animals, food, types of sports, articles of clothing, jobs, common places, etc. Most of my students this time around were younger on average, so focusing on vocabulary was a good idea. On Thursdays, we did a speaking club, with a lot of focus on answering questions. Students naturally have difficulty paying attention, so this time, after 45 minutes- 1 hour, I would stop the club and give students candy, and then they would go play volleyball, table tennis, or stay inside and play Jenga or Uno. The kids really love Uno. 

Vanessa and I went to Sary Chelek on our last weekend. Sary Chelek is a beautiful lake up north that is a bit difficult and out of the way to get to. Some private tours from Bishkek travel there. Some volunteers in July visited Sary Chelek, but Vanessa and I both were unable to go due to being stuck in Bishkek. I was there because I was on medical leave, and Vanessa’s flight had been canceled. July would have been ideal to go, of course, but logistically, I hadn’t had the time nor had I planned it. Yet with summer coming to a close, I thought it was best to go or not at all. Next year, we’re limited in traveling, so any summer travels had to be done now. We went, and we hiked the nearly four-hour trip from the village we spent the night at to the lake itself. The lake was gorgeous, though the weather was so cold. Like Song-Kol cold, cold enough that I had a jacket. Additionally, while on the hike it rained several times, drenching my hat and my coat. By the time we got to the lake, it was still cold, and we swam but not for long. Other travelers jumped in as well, but I was shivering and numb because of how cold and windy it was. 

Around this time, K30, the new cohort was sworn in! Swearing in was over 1 year ago, and that’s absolutely crazy. It doesn’t feel like a year, or at least it doesn’t fully register. Sometimes when I reminisce about college with friends I accidentally forget to add a year between August 2023 to now when we talk about past events. Oh, that one party? Just last year, instead of being fully 2 years ago. Time, it wanders away from you like that. Two new volunteers have come to Jalal-Abad but they’re far from us, they’re around Toktogul I think. Four new volunteers are near Osh, around the border, and Uzgen. So six new volunteers to the south, which is exciting. K30 is a marginally smaller cohort than ours (21 compared to our 25), but they sent quite a lot to Chuy this year (Chuy is where Bishkek the capital is, and it is uncommon for lots of volunteers to be assigned near the capital due to Bishkek having a lot of access and resources, only one of our cohort is there). But K30 didn’t get to wear the traditional Kyrgyz vests (chapans) like we did! They made the BBC Kyrgyzstan, though. 

At home, life is much the same. It’s finally cool at night. Home has been busy. My extended family, several of who live in Russia, came and left rather quickly. Most arrived a few days after my birthday, around the first week of August, and just a few days ago, left to go back. Last week, my host dad hosted more construction workers, for only a few nights. When I asked what work they were doing, he said there was no work. When I followed up by asking why they were here if there was no work, he said “We have the room, why not?” Major eye roll from me, especially because poor Aidana had to cook all their food for them. Adelya and Alihan are bigger, and Kuz Saykal fully walks around the house. I remember musing at the table one night, where 17 people were sitting there, and my host dad laughed when I pointed it out. People came in and out of the house so often that fully eating together all 17 was rare. Anyway, several left, surprisingly earlier than last year, but because of how late I arrived last year (August 26), my time with them this year was approximately the same. Meder had discussed leaving earlier, but due to incursions and fighting into Russian territory, he hasn’t returned yet, though I suspect he will soon. I have given up making predictions about who will be here and for how long because of how inconsistent and unpredictable it all is. One year later, I just go with it. 

The other day, my teachers had a large teacher meeting. I found most of it uninteresting, it largely was about discussing the upcoming year and other subjects not related to any of my work. Baktygul got antsy after two hours, understandably so, as her children had arrived to nag her at school. I had prepared a presentation to discuss our grant project, a work in progress with multiple starts and stops due to lots of stuff. She quickly presented and discussed our project before dipping to take care of her kids. My school director, Gulzara, was emphatic that she and the other teachers would help me in this process, which comforted me. I’m pretty behind other volunteers working on my grant project (Baktygul and Gulzara had both left for Bishkek, plus Manas and all of that occurred in May which disrupted our work). I came home to find an elaborate table set up, at least 2 full watermelons cut up, bottles of Fanta, coca-cola, juice, tons of candy and cookies/baked goods, loads of bread, and a whole Kyrgyz food display for guests. I was expecting lots of guests as usual, and my family said my host sister’s husband, Bakyt, family was coming to visit from Russia. I expected a whole extended in-laws' car to arrive, and when I woke up from a nap, I saw only two people had arrived. The whole food setup for more than 12-14 people was just for Bakyt’s two parents. Crazy. 

School starts tomorrow. I got sort of sick, and so on the day of Kyrgyz Independence Day, I did nothing but be sick. As opposed to last year, when we went to Jalal-Abad city and saw a lovely concert, taking the kids to ride around the waterfall in play cars and bikes, I threw up my dinner. If that’s not a lovely omen for the next year, I don’t know what is… In truth, a lot of the next year shouldn’t be as surprising as the first. There will be a lot of building off of the last year, in addition to the frenzy of trying to find a job after this. Summer is over, and hopefully, with it, the awful sweat-inducing weather goes. I’m ready for winter! I’m ready to wear my oversized coat around the house, and I’m ready to restart my school clubs (which probably won’t happen until October). I get to return to my students. Some things are better than last year. I feel more comfortable and fully at home with my family. The kids are growing, and I've settled into routines, but my travels and my stories allow me to continue to not only have things and interesting stories to share but also to reflect on my work and see even more of Kyrgyzstan. Congratulations K30, your journey has only just begun!

À Bientôt,

Grace

Music

1. Lightning- Zoe Wees
2. Control- Zoe Wees
3. King of a Tragedy- Isak Danielson
4. Fire Burns You Cold- Isak Danielson
5. Wait For You- Tom Walker and Zoe Wees
6. Hold Me Like You Used To- Zoe Wees
7. Taste- Sabrina Carpenter
8. See You Again- Illenium and the Chainsmokers
9. Nobody- OneRepublic
10. Sink or Swim- OneRepublic
11. Die With a Smile- Bruno Mars and Lady Gaga
12. If I was Your Man- the Vamps
13. Man’s World- Marina
14. Run Boy Run- Woodkid
15. Still Here- League of Legends